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Who is Nomos Glashütte? A watchmaking brand that should be on your radar


by Rick Smee

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Nomos: Artisan tradition meets design

June 29. 2017 - by Rick Smee

The Glashütte Manufacturer, NOMOS can claim a unique and impressive history. Originally founded in 1906 it was re-established in 1990 following the fall of the Berlin wall. The company has succeeded in establishing itself between the old-established Haute Horlogerie in Glashütte in less than two decades, developing manufacturing 'calibers' with new, innovative complications and even achieving a production depth of 95 percent. Read on to find out more about the Nomos models as we get to know this exceptional brand.


From zero to one hundred in 15 years


The origin of the NOMOS Watch Company dates back to 1906 when the company was set up by Guido Müller in order to capitalise on the good reputation of Glashütte watches. Up until that point, the Guido Müller & Co. had simply imported and sold Swiss watches.

The true success story begins in 1990 when Roland Schwertner registered the brand Nomos Glashütte and set out to make simple, elegant timepieces. 2005 was a milestone in the company's history, as it marked  NOMOS Glashütte switching to only in-house movements. Previously, the company employed the Swiss-made ETA SA/Peseux 7001 works. In 2005 they began with the manual winding 'caliber' Alpha, before developing others such as the Beta, Gamma and Delta.

An exceptional brand

Part of the charm of NOMOS and what makes them unique in the world of watches is their fresh and unconventional outlook compared to the giants of watch manufacturing based in Glashütte, Saxony, with 170 years of history. Free from superfluous frills, the simple and elegant design of the NOMOS watch radiates a casual restraint and draws inspiration from the Bauhaus purist design style. The brand has hardly been idle since 2005 expanding their range of in-house calibers. In 2014 the company unveiled its in-house swing system into various models of its watches, a system balance spring, escape wheel and pallet—that powers a mechanical watch and sets the pace. In 2015, Nomos introduced a new automatic caliber, the DUW 3001, exclusive to the Neomatik series. It is characterised by being only 3.2 millimetres in height, and whilst being incredibly innovative and thin, it is able to maintain phenomenal precision. One of the most impressive attributes of Nomos watches are their prices. Starting at £ 830, one would struggle to find better value elsewhere.

 

Discover our 5 favourite Nomos models at CHRONEXT

Club Campus 'Baselworld 2017'

2017 was a big year for NOMOS Glashütte, at Baselworld they introduced an entirely new collection within the Club range, named Campus, aimed at the younger collector. While the traditional Club models are characterised by red-orange accents on the hands or the dial, the models in the Campus range are available in more colourful reds or blues. These variants are typical of NOMOS: the manufacturer is renowned for issuing special editions in creative colours with even more creative names. Typical of this ethos is the Nomos Orion Friesennerz, whose yellow dial is described as 'raincoat yellow'.

 

Nomos Metro

In 2014 Nomos introduced the Metro. This extraordinary watch has since gone on to win the German Design Award, the Good Design Award and the iF Product Design Award. Created by the Berlin-based designer Mark Braun, the unconventional design combines the finest precision with clear elegance. Replete with the famous NOMOS swing system, the in-house escapement. This watch is designed for those with an eye for aesthetics, a timepiece for the discerning metropolitan collector.

Nomos Tangente

Since NOMOS sold its first watches in 1992 the Tangente has become a NOMOS staple. Considered by many aficionados as the crown jewel in their lineup, this watch is the epitome of NOMOS Glashütte design ethos, an embodiment of their manufacturing process. The origin of the Tangente design dates back to 1924 and was a Glashütte classic from A. Lange and Söhne. Since its release, the Tangente has hardly changed. It is available in numerous variations and versions, with a date display and a power reserve indicator. Furthermore, it is available in a range of sizes: the Tangente 33, the larger Tangente 38, and as an automatic model Tangomat and the new super-thin Tangente Neomatik.


Nomos Ludwig

The Ludwig is the most classical watch of the NOMOS Glashütte lineup. At first glance, one might think that it is identical to the Tangente. The most obvious difference is the use of stylish Roman numerals making it  a little softer and rounder than the Tangente. The Ludwig is available in the traditional diameter of 35 millimetres as well as the more contemporary 38 millimetres. If larger timepieces are your preference, you have the choice of the Ludwig with an automatic movement. This timepiece  measures a stately 40 millimetres.


Nomos Zürich Weltzeit Nachtblau

The Zürich Weltzeit is the most complex timepiece of NOMOS’ releases. The watch is equipped with a world time display and informs the wearer about the different time zones around the world. The Zürich Weltzeit allows for the simultaneous viewing of two unique time zones. In addition, the Zürich Weltzeit has a 24-hour display, which has been positioned on the right-hand side of the dial. Despite the extensive complications, the timepiece is comfortable and can be read without any problems. This version of the watch is probably the most beautiful watch in the Zurich Series. It radiates a restrained, urban elegance, combined with the demanding complications. A perfect watch for frequent travellers.


Rick Smee

by Rick Smee

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